El Nazar Kilise, often referred to as the Evil Eye Church, is a fascinating rock-cut church dating back to the 10th or 12th century, located in the scenic Zemi Valley near Göreme. It stands out due to its distinctive conical fairy chimney structure, unlike many other cave churches carved directly into cliff faces. The church is particularly renowned for its remarkably well-preserved frescoes, which depict scenes from the life of Jesus and offer a rare glimpse into Byzantine artistry and religious iconography.
Visitors consistently praise the quality and detail of the frescoes, often noting that they are comparable to, or even surpass, those found in the more famous Göreme Open Air Museum. Many appreciate the church's quiet, less crowded atmosphere, allowing for a more intimate viewing experience. The unique architecture and the surrounding natural beauty of the valley also receive high marks, with several reviewers highlighting the pleasant walk or hike to reach the site. However, some visitors express disappointment with the small size of the interior and the relatively short duration of the visit, especially considering the separate entrance fee.
To make the most of your visit, plan to spend about 15-30 minutes inside the church itself. The best time to visit is during the cooler parts of the day, either early morning or late afternoon, especially in warmer months, as the walk can be exposed to the sun. Wear comfortable walking shoes, as the path can be dusty and uneven. While some reviews mention a caretaker who provides information, this is not consistently reported, so it's advisable to research the frescoes beforehand if you want a guided understanding. Photography inside is generally not permitted, though some older reviews mention it was allowed at one point.
El Nazar Kilise is easily accessible from Göreme. It's located off the main road leading to the Göreme Open Air Museum, with clear signposting. Many visitors choose to walk from Göreme, which takes about 10-15 minutes to reach the ticket office, followed by a short stroll to the church itself. The walk through the Zemi Valley is often described as beautiful, offering scenic views. For those who prefer not to walk, scooters or taxis can take you closer to the entrance. Parking is available near the main road for those driving. The church is often part of the Zemi Valley hiking trail, so combining it with a longer walk is a popular option.
A recurring complaint among visitors relates to the presence and behavior of the caretaker. Several female reviewers have reported uncomfortable or inappropriate interactions, including overly familiar gestures and aggressive flirting. While some visitors found the caretaker informative, others strongly advise caution, especially for solo female travelers. Additionally, some reviews mention the church being locked or closed unexpectedly, particularly during the off-season, so it's wise to check opening hours in advance. The entrance fee is separate from the Museum Pass, which can be a point of frustration for those expecting it to be included.
