The ruins of Ani, once a thriving medieval city, bear silent witness to the turbulent reign of Fadl ibn Shavur in the 12th century. As the son of deposed emir Abu'l-Aswar Shavur, Fadl recaptured Ani from Georgian control around 1125, pledging to protect its Christian population—a rare promise in this era of shifting powers. Though his rule extended briefly to Dvin and Ganja, his inability to hold these cities and the subsequent loss of Dvin to Turkish emir Qurti led to his assassination by courtiers around 1130.
Today, visitors to Ani's windswept plateau can explore the remnants of churches and mosques that coexisted during Fadl's short reign. The double walls of this 'City of 1001 Churches' still show traces of both Shaddadid and Georgian architectural influences. For history enthusiasts, the site offers a tangible connection to this little-known chapter when Christian and Muslim rulers vied for control of the Caucasus crossroads. Visit early morning to avoid crowds and bring sturdy shoes for navigating the uneven terrain.
